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jacket-details-explained

Style Guide

What to Look For:
Your Jacket Detail Guide

What to Look
For: Your Jacket
Detail Guide

Man wearing a double breasted jacket with a white crewneck knit and white trousers.

Lapels, closures, lining—it’s hard to know where to begin when searching for the perfect jacket. Fear not, we’re diving into the details that make Suitsupply jackets stand out so you can choose the ideal style for you.

Find your Lapel

Man wearing a jacket featuring a peak lapel.
A zoomed image featuring the peak lapel.

The Peak Lapel — A generally formal style found mainly on double-breasted fits, peak lapels feature upward pointing tips, and are considered one of the hardest details in tailoring.

Those two prominent flaps of folded fabric along the opening on your jacket are called the lapel, and depending on their size and style, could make all the difference between timeless elegance and a modern appeal. Go bold with wide peak lapel, whose sharp angles and widened flap gives the impression of a strong, masculine shoulder—perfect for those of small stature looking to give themselves a more defined silhouette. Or keep it classic with a notch lapel, a classic style that complements your physique and is versatile enough for casual and formal occasions.

Notch Lapel

A classic notch lapel, with a 9.2cm width and wide appeal.

Notch Lapel — A classic 9.2cm width with wide appeal, perfect for all shapes and sizes, and the best pick for those of slimmer stature.

Wide Notch Lapel

Unlike a classic notch lapel, a wide notch lapel has a width of 9.8cm.

Wide Notch — The 9.8cm expanded width of a wide notch lapel helps grant the illusion of a broader chest.

The Right Pocket for You

Man wearing a patch pocket jacket with a white crewneck knit. 
One of the most popular pockets in Suitsupply jackets, the patch pocket.

Patch Pocket — Considered to be a more casual option, they’re found in variations that can include a flap closure and even pleats.

Jetted, flap, patch, flapped patch—not all pockets are created equal. Some are made for funtionality, others are better suiting to formal looks while others still are simply meant to be decorative accents—whatever your preference, it always helps to know the options.

A jetted pocket is a minimalist, Scandinavian typical style—may be able to find it in formal & evening jackets.

Jetted Pocket — A minimalist, Scandinavian-typical style, this fine slit pocket is found on casual, formal & evening styles, and creates a sleek, smooth silhouette.

Highlighting the jetted pocket.

Ticket Pocket

Ticket Pocket

Once used for easy access to train and opera tickets, today the ticket pocket is a style accent.

Ticket Pocket — As the name suggests, this pocket was once used for easy access to train and opera tickets. Today, it’s a style accent and sign of consideration to detail.

A classic flap pocket that haws fabric stitched to the upper welt.

Flap Pocket — A jetted pockets that features a flap of fabric stitched to the upper welt.

Shoulders: Structured or Natural?

Structured Shoulder

Structured Shoulder

A jacket that features a structured shoulder, makes for a full shapely silhouette.

Structured Shoulder — Crafted with lining and padding, this shoulder construction makes for a full, shapely silhouette that adds forms.

Natural Shoulder

Natural Shoulder

A jacket that features a traditional Italian style shoulder that brings out natural shape.

Natural Shoulder — This traditional Italian style features little to no padding to bring out the natural shape of your shoulder.

When it comes to setting the overall tone of your suit, the structure of the shoulder makes one of the biggest impacts. A traditional Italian style that leans toward a more sartorial aesthetic, a soft, unstructured shoulder features little to no padding, highlighting the wearer’s natural shoulder shape and grating a sportier, more casual appeal. A structured shoulder, by contrast, features more padding to create a broader, formal look with a defined form. When considering which style is best for you, remember that a structured shoulder will accentuate your physique, while unstructured will be truer to your shape.

Lined or Unlined?

A man wearing an unlined jacket.
Free of thick layers, an unlined jacket provides a natural and relaxed range of motion.

Unlined — Free of thick layers to give you a more casual aesthetic and a smoother, more natural and relaxed range of motion.

Just as the name suggests, our fully lined jackets feature lining running from the neckline down to the hemline, throughout the entirety of the jacket—this includes the full back, chest pieces and armholes. Ideal for the cooler seasons as they provide more warmth, full lining also grants a rich drape and more robust structure, as well as allows for personalization with Custom Made suiting. Unlined suits feature lining only in the sleeves to make slipping on your jacket a smooth process. Lighter and providing more natural movement throughout the jacket, they’re a contemporary style with casual appeal.

An image featuring a half lined jacket.

Half Lining — Half lined jackets feature lining only throughout the armholes and upper back and chest, creating a lighter wear with a more natural drape.

An image featuring a full lining jacket.

Full Lining — Lined from the neckline down to the hemline, throughout the back, chest, hem pieces and armholes for a smooth wear and heavier drape.

A close up to the butterfly lining, that requires expert tailoring to create a symmetrical finish.

Butterfly Lining — This complex style makes for a lighter, more natural wear, but requires expert tailoring to create a clean, symmetrical finish as there’s no lining to hide the interior stitching.

Keeping it Together: Stitching

2mm Pick Stitch

A close-up shot on the 2mm pick stich on a notch lapel.
Zooming into the 2mm pick stich that helps to strengthen the edges of hems, lapels and pockets of a jacket.

2mm Pick Stitch — Pick stitching not only strengthens the edges of the hems, lapels and pockets of a jacket, but also prevents curling and offers a neat, uniform finish.

AMF stitching, also known as pick stitching, is stitching that follows the edges of the jacket hem, lapel and pockets at either 2mm, which gives the jacket a more versatile, sportier appeal, or 6mm, which tends to provide a more sartorial aesthetic. Named after the company that produces the machine that makes this stitch, American Machine and Foundry, AMF stitching is a highly precise, yet incredibly slow process, but good things come to those who wait—like neat, flat edges that wont curl.

6mm Pick Stitch

Patch pocket with a 6mm pick stitch.
Zoomed in image featuring a 6mm stitching.

6mm Stitching — Pick stitching at 6mm from the edge adds reinforcement and provides a sartorial appeal.