Excess fabric is folded back onto itself and stitched by hand to create the thinnest collar possible. This is known as a hand-set, or hand-sewn collar.

You wouldn’t think it, but a lot can be learned by a quick look at the collar. In a quality suit, fastening the collar is a labor-intensive process requiring up to 20 skilled hands. To ensure the seams are as thin as possible, the fabric should be folded and hand-sewn back onto itself—this hides the excess fabric which a tailor can later re-cut or re-shape to emphasize your desired style, if needed.

Rolling lapel — 1000’s of stitches and light padding to maintain a natural roll.

A quality lapel should belined with a cotton and horsehair “floating” canvas. Instead of heat-fused in place, it will be precisely stitched in to give it volume and prevent it from flattening.

Unlike inferior lapels, which are pressed into a sharp, flat crease, a rolling lapel creates a rich, dynamic fluidity that eventually takes on the wearer’s shape. A voluminous roll is a key giveaway of a quality crafted jacket or coat lapel.

Named after the Italian word for a small boat, a barchetta pocket is a welted chest pocket with a gently curved opening resembling the shape of a boat.

The barchetta pocket is a time-intensive accent requiring an experienced hand. Though functional, this classic Italian detail is best regarded as an aesthetic accent that gives your style a touch of traditional flair.

Pick stitching adds a touch of sartorial flair. Pick stitching, also known as AMF stitching after the sophisticated machine that creates it, is stitching that lies along the edge of the jacket hem, shoulder, lapel and pockets Pick stitching is a textural feature used to accent suits, blazers, and sport coats. A true sign of expert craftsmanship, this detail not only keeps the lining in place, but it also keeps the edges sharp and prevents rolling and curling.

Pick stitched lapel — A traditional and stylish way to prevent curling or rolling of the lapel edge.

A true Neapolitan seam is angled slightly backwards, not only obscuring the seam from the front, but also providing more comfort as it naturally curves with your shoulder. With the difficulty of correctly matching the front and back jacket panels, this intricate seam requires an experienced artisan hand.

Functional buttonholes — Leave one unfastened to show just how sophisticated your suit truly is.

Functional buttonholes are a telltale sign of a quality in a men’s suit or sport coat. Officially known as surgeon cuffs, as they were made for 19th century surgeons needing to roll up their sleeves, functional cuffs are just that—cuffs that you can button or unbutton. While most suits feature fixed buttons that are purely aesthetic, functional buttonholes give you more versatility and utility.

Trousers lining — Crafted from more robust cotton for added durability and a beautiful finish.

Many Suitsupply suit jackets and trousers feature interior lining. This hidden layer supports highly trafficked areas of your suit, like the trouser button or the breast pocket inside the jacket. With reinforced interior lining, your suit is set up to last you much longer and prevents deterioration in these high-use spots.

All the high-end details in the world make no difference if they’re not showcased on a premium fabric. That’s why we’ve made it a point to work with only the finest mills, most of which are in the heritage weaving province of Biella, Italy. From the world’s most eco-conscious weavers like Candiani, from which we get our denim, to technical fabrics from Olmetex and high-end wool, silk and cotton blends from the world’s oldest mill, Vitale Barberis Canonico, we make no compromise when it comes to top quality fabrics. Learn more about just why this famed Italian region has been home to the world’s top mills for hundreds of years, with no signs of slowing down.