Craftsmanship
The Hallmarks
of a Quality Suit & Blazer
The Hallmarks of a Quality Suit & Blazer
It’s easy to spot a quality suit if you know where to look. From hand-set collar to pick stitching, interior lining to Neapolitan seams —learn about the quality and craftsmanship that goes into every stitch, accent & detail of our suits.
Get into the Details
A Hand-Set Collar
Excess fabric is folded back onto itself and stitched by hand to create the thinnest collar possible.
You wouldn’t think it, but a lot can be learned by a quick look at the collar. In a quality suit, fastening the collar is a labor-intensive process requiring up to 20 skilled hands. To ensure the seams are as thin as possible, the fabric should be folded and hand-sewn back onto itself—this hides the excess fabric which a tailor can later re-cut or re-shape, if needed.
A Lapel with Natural Roll
Rolling lapel — 1000’s of stitches and light padding to maintain a natural roll.
A quality lapel should be lightly padded on the inside with a constructed canvas, and should have 1000’s of stitches to give it volume and prevent it from flattening. Unlike cheaper lapel constructions, which are pressed to a sharp, flat crease, a roll creates a rich, dynamic fluidity that eventually takes on the wearer’s shape—this is a key giveaway of a quality crafted lapel.
Learn more about canvas construction
The Barchetta Pocket
Named after the Italian word for a small boat, a barchetta pocket is a welted chest pocket with a gently curved opening resembling the shape of a boat. A time-intensive accent requiring an experienced hand, this Italian detail complements the shape of the lapel roll and follows your body shape more naturally—all while creating the illusion of height and providing some traditional flair.
The Pick Stitch
Pick stitched pocket — Adds a touch of sartorial flair.
Pick stitching, also known as AMF stitching after the sophisticated machine that creates it, is stitching that lies along the edge of the jacket, shoulder, lapel and pockets. A true sign of expert craftsmanship, this detail not only keeps the lining in place, but it also keeps the edges sharp and prevents rolling and curling.
Pick stitched lapel — A traditional and stylish way to prevent curling or rolling of the lapel edge.
The Neapolitan Seam
A true Neapolitan seam is angled slightly backwards, not only obscuring the seam from the front, but also providing more comfort as it naturally curves with your shoulder. With the difficulty of correctly matching the front and back jacket panels, this intricate seam requires an experienced artisan hand.
The Functional Buttonholes
Functional buttonholes — Leave one unfastened to show just how sophisticated your suit truly is.
Officially known as surgeon cuffs, as they were made for 19th century surgeons needing to roll up their sleeves, functional cuff are just that—cuffs that you can button or unbutton. While most suits feature fixed buttons that are purely aesthetic, functional buttonholes give you more versatility.
The After-Dinner Split
After-dinner split — It’s not a mistake, it’s a carefully crafted way to keep you more comfortable while seated..
An unseen and underappreciated detail that makes a huge difference when it comes to comfort and mobility, an after-dinner split is a small split in the top center of the back of the waistband that grants a bit of give when sitting. Though miniscule in size, it’s a big indicator of quality constructed trousers... and a much needed feature after any large meal.
The Interior Lining
Tongue facing lining — The inside pocket is reinforced with the jacket fabric. Not only a more luxurious aesthetic detail, this technique also makes the pocket more durable and prevents the sagging that comes from natural use.
Trousers lining — Crafted from more robust cotton for added durability and a beautiful finish.
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