At first glance, all shirts seem the same. But, look closer and you’ll start to notice features that make all the difference between average and extraordinary.
Get into the Details
Removable Collar Stay
Collar stay — Also known as collar bones, they serve to keep a collars sharply pointed and straight.
Upscale shirts will be constructed with a small sleeve (vent) at the back of the collar. Unlike shirts with collar stays permanently sewn in, this functional detail allows you to remove the stays before washing, preventing them—and, in turn, the collar—from being warped and bent out of shape in the wash.
Perhaps the easiest way to spot a quality shirt is by looking at the shoulder. In both our classic styles, as well as our more elevate pleated finishes, our luxury shirts feature hand-crafted shoulders for a truly sartorial appeal that surpasses the refinement of fully machine-constructed shirts. Crafted with a series of small pleats running along the sleeve head, pleated shoulder shirts—available through Custom Made only—offer the comfort of added space and a greater range of motion.
Offset seams — Don’t let the misaligned, asymmetry fool you, offset seams are constructed in such a way to get the perfect angle for maximum comfort and mobility.
High quality shirts feature an offset underarm seam. In this detailed stitch, the yoke and sleeve seams do not meet at a single point, fastening the sleeves in a way that closely follows the natural angle of your arm. This small technical detail requires the shirt to be crafted in two steps, rather than with a single seam. The result is a shirt that’s much more comfortable to move in as the draping of the sleeve is more fitted to the arms.
English seam — Also known as a single-needle stitch, this method creates a stronger seam and clean, streamlined look.
Much more difficult to create than a standard two-stitch seam, English seams are comprised of a single stitch, resulting in a fine, tight seam that prevents interior puckering and gives off a neater, more elegant look.
Lily Stitch & Shank
Lily stitching — A lily stitch is a more elevated way to secure a button to its thread. Unlike a standard cross stitch, this stitch traditionally resembles a lily flower, adding a subtle touch of artisinal detail.
Buttons on most shirts tend to lay flat against the fabric, making them more susceptible to loosening over time. A shank is a very small length of thread that creates space between the button and the shirt, giving it a more refined look and a stronger, longer-lasting hold.
Mother of Pearl — An unmistakable sign of a high-end shirt, mother of pearl is a favorite of bespoke shirtmakers thanks to its resilience and sheen. Crafted from the world’s finest Indonesian nacre, this luxurious accent naturally offers a unique shimmer, depth of color and natural strength.
A Fine Stitch
High-density stitching — Tight, plentiful stitching is key to creating a refined, uniform finish and keeping edges and corners from curling and warping.
Look for a clean, uniform stitch that is evenly spaced from the edge of the garment. Tightly woven fabrics should have a density of roughly 23 stitches per inch along the edge of the collar, cuffs and hem. As a result, this stitch prevents curling, makes the shirt more durable, and helps create a more refined aesthetic.
Side Seam Gussets
Gussets — This unseen detail makes all the difference between standard and high quality shirting by keeping the seam edge from tearing.
Standard quality shirts will stitch the side seam down to the edge and call it a day. On more premium shirts, you’re bound to find a little patch of fabric called a gusset. This pentagon shaped fabric reinforces the edge of the seam, preventing it from tearing from all the strain tucking and untucking can put on a fabric.